MYTH-BUSTERS:

A: NEARLY NOBODY NEEDS TO BUY A CHARGER !

Range is about 250% of the US average daily drive*, which fully recharges in 4 hours, or fully recharges from DEAD, overnight, with the stock cord in any 240V outlet, like you'd need anyway for a faster charger. Click here for adapters as cheap as $8. You can also use an auto-switching splitter in a dryer outlet.

* For longer trips you can either just drive to the airport, or borrow or rent a longer-range &/or faster-charging car, with some of your fuel savings. I stole that idea from Fiat, who originally offered free rentals with 500e purchase.

B: MOST PEOPLE ONLY NEED A STANDARD WALL OUTLET, since it fully recharges a US-average daily drive overnight or at work. It adds 40 miles in just 8 hours of sleep OR work. 50 miles or more if you have dinner & breakfast at home.

C: A proper extension cord works. Click here for how to choose the right extension.

D: Range at steady 55mph is better than stop-&-go city traffic averaging 25mph.
There's NO brake regeneration below 7mph.

E: ONE-way hills kill range, but if you can make it to the top, TWO-WAY hills (up AND down) make very little difference as long as you don't have to brake below 7mph coming down.

F: Cold kills range even with heat off, but it really helps to pre-heat it while plugged in. Seat heaters use about one 10th as much power as cabin heat.

G: You can get cool ambient air inside without power-robbing A/C: Just tap any lit button in the left HVAC cluster (Auto, A/C, Recirculate, Off) until they're all off, including the Off light. Then set the temp to "LO" & you can crank the fan with far less power than A/C uses.

 

Just curious again, I have seen many of your posts referring to the "US average daily drive". Just how far is it? and where are you finding this information?

 

The US Bureau of Transportation Statistics' American Travel Survey:

American Travel Survey | Bureau of Transportation Statistics

The 1995 American Travel Survey (ATS) was conducted by the Bureau of Transportation Statistics (BTS) to obtain information about the long-distance travel of persons living in the United States.

www.bts.gov

ga2500ev

 

There are many sources you can google, & I hadn't seen the one above, but it has a relevant data point at the link below, showing 93.2% of trips are 50 miles or less, if you hover the cursor on the pie chart for "By Distance":

NHTS NextGen OD Data

nhts.ornl.gov

 

A question, my telecommunications module has failed (according to the dealer, 1k to fix). resulting in no phone linking and odometer flashing. Where is the module for this located?, I found a parts car but don't know where this is, and if it is a plug and play unit.

 

Dealers are often wrong. I'd try proxy align. 1st. Item 9C here:

Site Map: 500e 1st-gen by ETS

 

Why isn't this stickied?

 

Item 7

"The "Miles Range" Gauge can read so high OR low that it's not even worth looking at, except for a laugh. That's because it assumes the virtually-impossible situation of driving conditions the EXACT same as the last 10 miles, all the way until it's dead."

This particular, nefarious, feature may be actionable as a class for all owners. It is the equivalent of odometer fraud, as it sets up an unsophisticated purchaser for fraud by the seller, by gaming usage. It also "hides" the battery condition from an owner, thereby delaying a warranty battery claim until the time has run.
In fact a warning should be displayed on starting the vehicle, that it can't be relied upon at all.


Electric cars are unique, in that battery condition can total the vehicle, whereas mileage really does not matter.

Comments?

 

Ya, I have a few comments, as usual .

It also "hides" the battery condition

Good point, but unfortunately 500e battery condition is always hidden. The only way to check is to charge to 100% a few times to balance the cells, & then:

• Discharge to 30% & use AlfaOBD check for a weak cell.
• Discharge until it won't drive, & then see how many kWh a full charge takes, to check capacity.

delaying a warranty battery claim until the time has run.

Good point again, but again unfortunately the 500e warranty only covers total battery failure, not bad condition.

Electric cars are unique, in that battery condition can total the vehicle, whereas mileage really does not matter.

I agree that a 500e might not be considered totaled even if it had mileage-failure of tires & shocks & CV joints & wheel bearings & window mechanisms & hatch struts & 12V battery & ambient temp sensor*, etc.

However, it also might not be considered totaled if poor battery condition just reduces its range to that of other brand new 1st-gen EVs like a Leaf or Smart. That's the worst I've heard of happening to a 500e. So far, every "dead" battery report I've seen was resurrected to at least that point, with a lot of labor but very little cost.

* Unless those are failing just from age alone.

 

Here's a copy of the current links menu, alphabetical (except OBD is ~sequential):

1. ABOUT ME & THESE FILES
2. Avoid REALLY Killing It
3. Battery Capacity Estimating
4. Battery Health Checks (OBD)
5. Breakdown Avoidance
6. Charge at Double Speed for $8-$20
7. Extension Cord Choices
8. Fix a 500e:
   • a) Charge-Only Failure
   • b) Dead Fix & Warning Delete
   • c) Diagnosis & Repair Options if Easy DIY Fails
   • d) Diagnosis & Service Files from Fiat
   • e) Service Centers & “Hall of Shame” Blacklist
9. "Miles Range" Gauge Inaccuracy
10. MYTH-BUSTERS - No Charger Needed!
11. OBD Made Easy (On Board Diagnostics)
    • a) Buy & Connect
    • b) Modules & Active Diagnostics Functions List
    • c) Log Viewing on Android
    • d) Fault Code List
    • e) Yellow Adapter Sources
    • f) Windows Connect, Scan, View, Search
12. Owner’s Manuals, Complete with Errors: 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019
13. Pre-Purchase Checklist
14. Recall List
15. Regain "Lost" Range for Free

 

Here's a copy of the current links menu, alphabetical (except OBD is ~sequential):

Hey, thanks for all the time you've spent collating all this 500e information! I just bought my first one used and have found all of this information so helpful!

Regarding the U69 update...I assume it is important to get it but this first section says not to get it (I think a typo):
It’s Scary-Easy to REALLY Kill a 500e

While this second section says to get it:
Breakdown Avoidance

I just wanted to make sure before I got it.

Thanks again

 

BIG UPDATE!
DIAGNOSIS & SERVICE FILES FROM FIAT ADDED!

Click item 8d on the list above.

 

GET U69!

"Don't get U69" is under "how to kill it" !

Even more important, get surge protection.

Please use the link below, which is more up to date.

As a new owner, breakdown prevention is likely the most important part, which is currently item 6 here:

Site Map: 500e 1st-gen by Electric Tire Shredder.

& welcome to the group!

 

Can I still get U69 from a dealership and how can I check that I have or don't have it already?

 

Please see "Breakdown Avoidance" at my "Site Map" (click here).

 

Ok just checked it it says "U69 unsure"

Looks like I need the update, do I dare take my car to the local Stellantis dealership or is there some DIY way to fix this bug.

Okay I went on Mopar.com and ran a VIN Status Check report it lists my car as receiving the U69 back in 2018. So guess unsure is OK

 

There's no DIY, but we've learned that it doesn't really help. Details in "Breakdown Avoidance".

 

Took me a minute to find the calibrate battery procedure, it could be more obviously named.

BTW - I just found the re-calibrate braking sensor thing, and it doesn't even feel like my car anymore, it just kinda slows down then stops. Thanks so much for posting it!