If you purchase any 500e these 6 simple actions will help keep it running (in no particular order, click pics to enlarge):
![]()
![]()
![]()
![]()
![]()
![]()
![]()
Optional preparation for key loss:
If you only have one key, & you lose it, it costs $1500 + towing (click here for explanation), so you might want to get a proper $400 transponder copy at a dealer, or else get some cheap non-transponder copies, then glue the good one inside the steering column cover & use the cheap ones to lock/unlock/start.
Optional(?) safety prep:
![]()
Add a chunk of styrofoam insulation all the way down the side:
![]()
** You want one of those "pricey" OBD cables because a cheap Bluetooth won't fix the proxy glitch. Anyway, @Iceman advises against cheapies (post #6 here) AND @fast_dave advises against wireless (post #2 here). OBDs with their own screen can cause errors, but they're often fixed by the standard tricks (click here).
The AlfaOBD app is Android/Windows only, so if you have an iPhone, or you share the car, & none of your friends can donate an old OTG-compatible Android (check with the free "USB OTG Checker" app), you can put AlfaOBD on a ~$30 Amazon Android. No service needed, just download the app on Wi-Fi, & leave it charging off the glovebox USB. Before you buy one, check that it's OTG compatible.
Alternative: Keep a charged-up Windows laptop in the car, with the $49 AlfaOBD Windows app installed.
There's no contactor reset on the MultiEcuScan.net iPhone/Windows app, & you need the paid version just to clear codes.
- 1: Save the ~$2,000 onboard charger with a ~$20 surge protector. For some 120V options click here & check posts 8, 16 & 19. Click here for some ~$60 plug-in 240V protector options. If you unplug, do so from the protector, so it wears out, not the harder-to-replace wall outlet.
- 2: Save the $10,000+ Battery Pack with free U69 software update: Check the VIN's recalls & "Notices" (click here for full list) fixed free at any FCA dealer such as Dodge, Jeep or Ram. Do not use the NHTSA site, since U69 doesn't show there. Click here or click "Recalls" under "Resources" at Mopar.com To avoid main drive battery damage, click "Customer Satisfaction Notices" & check for U69:
U69 work-around: Monitor the 12V (item 5 below) & watch for the car's gauge dropping more than a few % while parked.
- 3: Get a 65¢ wingnut (M8 x 1.25) or carry a wrench or at least pliers to disconnect the 12V starter battery if it ever needs a reboot in order to start/charge:
Left to right: OEM, 65¢ at local hardware, $6 on Amazon (search "m8-1.25 wingnut" or click here & scroll down til you see it).
- 4: Leave the humidity sensor unplugged. If the glass was replaced it's often tucked in the headliner. It creates many false alarms that can prevent starting/charging. At the very least, carry a round toothpick to unplug it when needed:
- 5: OBD WITH ITS OWN SCREEN KILLS THE CAR! Keep the following in the car:
- $45 OBDLink.com SX (click here) or $54 EX (incl. 10% off by signing up to free newsletter)**
- $13 "Yellow ADAPTER", NOT just a yellow extension! (click here)
- Charged-up OTG-ready Android** with $49 AlfaOBD.com app installed & $3 OTG adapter to fit (not just a charge-only adapter)
That's for 2 glitches that are unavoidable even with the humidity sensor unplugged:
- Contactor Disable glitch prevents starting/charging. It needs the paid AlfaOBD app to fix:
- Proxy Misalignment glitch makes the odometer flash & can make the % gauge oscillate so it dies while driving*. The fix needs the paid app & the Yellow Adapter which only works with an approved USB reader:
* Work-around: Ignore the gauge, always charge til it stops at 100%, & zero out a trip gauge to keep track of your range.
- 6: Get a ~$26 Bluetooth battery alarm like a BM2 or BM6. The built-in alarm often activates AFTER the car dies
, & jumpstarting doesn't always work. Or at least use a $10 volt gauge periodically, after the 12V battery is 9 months old. Click here for the thread on this forum.
Optional preparation for key loss:
If you only have one key, & you lose it, it costs $1500 + towing (click here for explanation), so you might want to get a proper $400 transponder copy at a dealer, or else get some cheap non-transponder copies, then glue the good one inside the steering column cover & use the cheap ones to lock/unlock/start.
Optional(?) safety prep:
- If possible, replace any 59¢ "residential grade" wall outlet you plan to use with a $4 "commercial grade" one to reduce risk of fire.
- Headlights & Fogs SUCK! (until you adjust them upwards a little). Even safer with Hikari "Acme X" bulbs from Amazon (click here for the thread on this forum).
Add a chunk of styrofoam insulation all the way down the side:
** You want one of those "pricey" OBD cables because a cheap Bluetooth won't fix the proxy glitch. Anyway, @Iceman advises against cheapies (post #6 here) AND @fast_dave advises against wireless (post #2 here). OBDs with their own screen can cause errors, but they're often fixed by the standard tricks (click here).
The AlfaOBD app is Android/Windows only, so if you have an iPhone, or you share the car, & none of your friends can donate an old OTG-compatible Android (check with the free "USB OTG Checker" app), you can put AlfaOBD on a ~$30 Amazon Android. No service needed, just download the app on Wi-Fi, & leave it charging off the glovebox USB. Before you buy one, check that it's OTG compatible.
Alternative: Keep a charged-up Windows laptop in the car, with the $49 AlfaOBD Windows app installed.
There's no contactor reset on the MultiEcuScan.net iPhone/Windows app, & you need the paid version just to clear codes.
