[Electric Tire Shredder]

No OEM cord sadly.

Okay, so here are the issues with that:

• Many aftermarket cords fail to take the car to 100%. That is needed to balance the cells, & to reset the % when there's a proxy misalignment. The work-around in both cases is to top it off at a public plug.
• At least 3 of us have had charge failure at public plugs (3 different ones, in my case). All 3 of us, & likely many others who just haven't reported it, had the failure corrected just by plugging into the OEM cord. Since that fixed it permanently, we don't know if the standard glitch-clearing that you're doing would have worked, but I expect it would.

 

[Lemon fiat]

The Yellow Adapter's plugs are male-female so only 1 end will plug into the car, & only 1 end will plug into the SX cable.

They're also asymmetrical so you can't plug them in upside-down.

It does connect the car's connections to different ones on the SX cable, in order for it to connect to different modules:
View attachment 118055
It won't work if it doesn't "cross over" the connections to the other modules. That's why I always try to make a point of mentioning that you need to make sure it's not just a yellow-colored extension cable that doesn't cross over the connections properly.

I got the same yellow $12 cable you recommended so unless Amazon batched items with like items. In theory I should be ok.

 

[Lemon fiat]

The Yellow Adapter's plugs are male-female so only 1 end will plug into the car, & only 1 end will plug into the SX cable.

They're also asymmetrical so you can't plug them in upside-down.

It does connect the car's connections to different ones on the SX cable, in order for it to connect to different modules:
View attachment 118055
It won't work if it doesn't "cross over" the connections to the other modules. That's why I always try to make a point of mentioning that you need to make sure it's not just a yellow-colored extension cable that doesn't cross over the connections properly.

Makes sense to me. I was just a little worried it wasn't one way. It was probably in that document that was blocked ... So I'll check later tomorrow anyways

 

[Lemon fiat]

The Yellow Adapter's plugs are male-female so only 1 end will plug into the car, & only 1 end will plug into the SX cable.

They're also asymmetrical so you can't plug them in upside-down.

It does connect the car's connections to different ones on the SX cable, in order for it to connect to different modules:
View attachment 118055
It won't work if it doesn't "cross over" the connections to the other modules. That's why I always try to make a point of mentioning that you need to make sure it's not just a yellow-colored extension cable that doesn't cross over the connections properly.

Continuity test. Multimeter was set to 200k as that made the most sense for a switch this size? Hard to make out what your probe was originally set to but with a little googling it made sense where with what. With 2000k it showed 0.0 as well.

20k or below showed minor current but that just didn't make sense to go that low.

 

[Lemon fiat]

Okay, so here are the issues with that:

• Many aftermarket cords fail to take the car to 100%. That is needed to balance the cells, & to reset the % when there's a proxy misalignment. The work-around in both cases is to top it off at a public plug.
• At least 3 of us have had charge failure at public plugs (3 different ones, in my case). All 3 of us, & likely many others who just haven't reported it, had the failure corrected just by plugging into the OEM cord. Since that fixed it permanently, we don't know if the standard glitch-clearing that you're doing would have worked, but I expect it would.

To be fair I will be using a Kia NIRO EV plug. While aftermarket. It's probably more OEM then any other available

 

[Electric Tire Shredder]

It will likely be fine, plus like I mentioned above there are work-arounds for both issues.

 

[Electric Tire Shredder]

It was probably in that document that was blocked ... So I'll check later tomorrow anyways

There's nothing to check, since it's impossible to connect the Yellow Adapter wrong.

Someone (maybe you?) emailed me that my flashing odometer doc wasn't shared public, so I fixed that, but the Yellow Adapter details were always available, currently 12E on the Site Map (click here).

 

[Lemon fiat]

There's nothing to check, since it's impossible to connect the Yellow Adapter wrong.

Someone (maybe you?) emailed me that my flashing odometer doc wasn't shared public, so I fixed that, but the Yellow Adapter details were always available, currently 12E on the Site Map (click here).

Yes it was me that email ya. Yes yellow adapter details were there. But because they were a bit advanced with the splicing diy. I wasn't sure if it was one way or not. Now that's cleared it makes more sense. Yes it was there sorry for confusion it was just a bit more advanced schematics wise for me

But now that I know it's one way and I can't **** up anything is a bit more relieving. 🤣

 

[Lemon fiat]

It will likely be fine, plus like I mentioned above there are work-arounds for both issues.

At the wires of the 12v. I'm getting 1.5v not connected to the battery

And when connected to the battery I'm getting 12.5v at the wire and battery

 

[Lemon fiat]

Was unable to get Alfa obd to interact with battery or yellow cable.

My guess is my obd To USB c was incompatible? I was however able to pull up these codes so to some extent it does want to read it. But my guess is it's the obd2 to USB c.

 

[Electric Tire Shredder]

Was unable to get Alfa obd to interact with battery or yellow cable.

Please explain. Do you mean you were unable to get Alfa to connect to the Battery Pack Control Module? Like this (click to enlarge):

That module will not connect with a Yellow ADAPTER connected. The only modules that use it state it clearly when selected:

 

[Electric Tire Shredder]

My guess is my obd To USB c was incompatible?.... But my guess is it's the obd2 to USB c.

I wonder why you'd think that, since it's clearly working fine when connecting to the EVCU & OBCM. If it will read System Status at both of them:

...& it also connects to the Power Inverter Module in the "Engine" section, & reads its system status, but that won't work for the BPCM, it's a sign of either a dead battery pack or a dead BPCM.

Let me know if that didn't make sense.

 

[Lemon fiat]

I wonder why you'd think that, since it's clearly working fine when connecting to the EVCU & OBCM. If it will read System Status at both of them:

View attachment 118085

...& it also connects to the Power Inverter Module in the "Engine" section, & reads its system status, but that won't work for the BPCM, it's a sign of either a dead battery pack or a dead BPCM.

Let me know if that didn't make sense.

Got it. So yeah dead battery pack or bad bpcm I thought it was a obd connector but I guess not.

 

[Lemon fiat]

I wonder why you'd think that, since it's clearly working fine when connecting to the EVCU & OBCM. If it will read System Status at both of them:

View attachment 118085

...& it also connects to the Power Inverter Module in the "Engine" section, & reads its system status, but that won't work for the BPCM, it's a sign of either a dead battery pack or a dead BPCM.

Let me know if that didn't make sense.

Thanks for all your help.

 

[Electric Tire Shredder]

You're welcome, but we're not done...

 

[Electric Tire Shredder]

You want to turn the key from OFF, just ONE click until the speedometer lights up, then connect OBD & go back into the EVCU & hit "read all faults", then "clear faults".

Then go back into the OBC & do the same, & same for all 6 other modules. It seems like you might not be able to connect to the BPCM, but often even when it won't give system status it will still give fault codes...

 

[Electric Tire Shredder]

The BPCM is a weird one, since it often won't scan the system status if you've just done a fault check. You have to go from the connect screen STRAIGHT to the "Duracell" icon, without hitting the "Engine" icon first:

1:

2:

3:

 

[Electric Tire Shredder]

First though, I'd connect the Yellow Adapter & clear all 8 modules that use it.

Then do a Proxy Alignment:

Then turn the key off for 2 minutes, back on 1 click for 1 minute, then reconnect OBD, see if you still can't get a BPCM system status scan. Then check fault codes again to see which ones returned in the PIM, OBC, EVCU, & BPCM if possible, & give us screenshots of those codes, like you did above.

 

[Lemon fiat]

The BPCM is a weird one, since it often won't scan the system status if you've just done a fault check. You have to go from the connect screen STRAIGHT to the "Duracell" icon, without hitting the "Engine" icon first:

1:
View attachment 118089

2:
View attachment 118087

3:
View attachment 118088

Will try and update tomorrow thank you so much. Was gonna order another obd to USBC but that probably isn't even needed like you said.

 

[Electric Tire Shredder]

Leave the 12V disconnected. It can drain overnight when there are errors in the system.