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Discussion Starter #21
Back with one more set in:

7443 Front Turn Signals (LINK) T-7443D

These are the Lasfit LED switchbacks, which means they can act as DRLs or turn signals. While a bit more expensive than their normal Canbus ready LED turn signals. I bought them anyways to test the DRL feature.

As turn signals, they work perfectly. I left them on for a good 10 minutes; no errors and no hyper flash problems.

Note: if they don't turn on upon first install, just flip the bulb's pins around. They are Polarity Sensitive.

As DRLs, they don't work and bulb out error. At first, I thought it may be a polarity issue like the blinkers had, but upon switching pins all I could get out of them was the amber LEDs.

Because of this you could probably just use the Lasift T-7440A bulbs that don't have the DRL feature.

The DRLs are becoming a tough LED to find that are Canbus ready.
 
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Discussion Starter #23
Wanted to bump this thread. Anyone else try any of these bulbs recently?

@RostHaus - Any updates?
Everything is still working. I have LEDs in all the slots, but the brake lights and rear turn signals. That will be done next month, when my series 4 tail lights arrive.

The only things I've changed since my last post:(both sets below have about 4 months of daily usage on them)

DRLs: I still have not found an ideal solution. Currently using Lasfit 7440/7441 bulbs that are not Canbus ready. I mentioned the possibility of them working in a previous post.
The bulbs cause a bulb out error if the headlights are not on at the same time. But if the headlights are on, no errors.

My guess is the LEDs just don't put out enough watts to not trip a bulb out error on their own. 4 watts compared to 24w for the incandescent DRLs. This is why I was originally hoping to use the LED switchbacks in the DRL slot, because they put out 24 watts. But those just simply would not turn on, in the DRL slot.

I may go back to the DRL and see if I can find a true plug and play solution. But the $18 pair that almost works isn't too bad and look the part.

Fogs: I wanted Fogs with a yellow hue and didn't want to pay the $150+ for some of the true yellows or use Lamin-X on the exterior of the housing. So I went with an amazon special that came with glass sleeves wrapped in a yellow lamin-x.
They are Vozada bulbs. Model: H11 H8 H9 Part Number: HTTYU564767 Price: $25-$32
The bulbs surprisingly had built-in inline resisters, and put out enough watts (36w) to not trip the bulb out error. I would hope most LEDs buibs that put out a minimum of 36w(most companies list the 72w combined) will work.
 

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@RostHaus Thanks for the update! I’m going to start in on my conversion efforts.

Any pics of the headlights? Curious how the color temperature reads.
 

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I am genuinely curious as why so many people want to to change their OEM bulbs to LED.

I fully understand why new cars use LED assemblies as they can make custom light assembly designs with multiple LEDs, lower wattage draw, and lifespan for the entire life of the car.

However I don't understand why owners of the Fiat 500e want to change out their bulbs. Canbus errors get thrown if you use a standard LED bulb. So then people get LEDs with a resistor that doesn't create a canbus error. Well that negates the lower wattage draw as the resistor is purposefully passing current, just so an error does not get thrown.

The headlights are another source of problems when using LEDs. Dissipating the heat, questionable reliability, higher cost, all seem to plague LED aftermarket headlight replacements. I have watched a lot of videos, and the biggest issue is the ability of an after market LED to replicate the halogen filament pattern to get the correct the beam pattern. Apparently very, very few after maket LED assemblies can replicate the spot beam of the original OEM halogen. It seems like nothing is gained, and safety is going backwards instead.

So, what is the motivation?
 

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Discussion Starter #27 (Edited)
Its mostly aesthetic appeal for myself. I hate the way halogens look. Its been probably 15 years, since I've had a vehicle with halogens. I just don't like them on modern cars.
I would have swapped headlight housings for the European HIDs and led drls, but its not an option. They don't fit.

The beam pattern on the bulbs I've been picking, have been spot on, imo. The only ones I didn't have a lot of faith in was the fog bulbs I picked, but they been surprisingly nice. I did have to make some minor adjustments to the housings' angle, but that was a simple turn of a screwdriver.

red and amber LEDs on the sidemarkers and turn signals are much brighter than the stock bulbs. In an electric car combined with the smoked lenses on the sides, I want to be seen on the road, particularly at night. By both cars and pedestrians.

Its also a learning experience, I like to tinker with all my vehicles.
The lights are typically the gateway for me; get to learn a bit about a vehicle I've never worked on and find things I will change down the road. Next up is suspension and brakes.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
@RostHaus Thanks for the update! I’m going to start in on my conversion efforts.

Any pics of the headlights? Curious how the color temperature reads.
I haven't taken any night pics since last February. At the time I had the DRLs, turn signals, sidemakers, and HL bulbs in. Along with the Depo smoked lenses
108185

108182
108183
108184
 

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For those who went LASFIT led Headlights Bulb did the back dust cap go back on? Majority of them have that heat sink and fan assembly that’s too big for the cap to go back on was this a issue? Also which series led did you use? I see there have a couple different ones and I was to make sure I pick one that fits.
 

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For those who went LASFIT led Headlights Bulb did the back dust cap go back on? Majority of them have that heat sink and fan assembly that’s too big for the cap to go back on was this a issue? Also which series led did you use? I see there have a couple different ones and I was to make sure I pick one that fits.
I didn't use that brand but another one. The heatsink still fit inside the housing. Wasn't an issue fitting it all in there.
 

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I didn't use that brand but another one. The heatsink still fit inside the housing. Wasn't an issue fitting it all in there.
It might be really picky, the stock bulb is already fairly close to the cap, I would imagine no more the 0.9” more depths
 

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Install lasfit led on clearance lamps, and brake light and they are hugely brighter then the stock incandescent bulbs. No errors to report. Left side is stock bulb right side is lasfit 1157. There are no hot spots and lighting is uniformly lit. The incandescent are so lame in the picture doesn’t even look like it’s on but it is.
108511
108512
108513
108514
 

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Which ones did you buy? I put in a set and on the last one, all the bulbs went out. I pulled it, put in a incandescent, and all came back on.
brand called Lasfit
I made this list maybe it might help someone:

Fiat 500e exterior bulb list:
Headlight #9012
Fog light #H11
Reverse light #921
Side market F or R #2821 (194,168 equivalent)
Rear turn signal #7507
Front turn signal #7440A
Parking light #7440
Third brake #2825 (some model already Oem led my 2017 was)
Brake light #7528 (1157 equivalent)
DRL #7443
 

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So I'm still having issues with the brake lights on my 500e. Can't seem to find any that will light with the parking lights. Brake? Fine. Parking light - no go and bulb out error. As soon as I put in the incandescent, everything works just fine. I'm pretty close to giving up...
 

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Fast forward 2 months everything still working good. The led headlights are a joy to drive at night over the halogens.
108784
108785
 

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So I'm still having issues with the brake lights on my 500e. Can't seem to find any that will light with the parking lights. Brake? Fine. Parking light - no go and bulb out error. As soon as I put in the incandescent, everything works just fine. I'm pretty close to giving up...
Not in the spirit of this thread, but I ended up using resistors here. 50 ohm is plenty enough to trick any parking bulb, but you could probably dial it in closer to 100 ohm depending on your exact specs. Pick up the same 5 pin connector and you can avoid splicing stock wiring. There is plenty of space and thermal headroom to mount the resistor below the housing. Just keep in mind it's not exactly waterproof in there.
 

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Not in the spirit of this thread, but I ended up using resistors here. 50 ohm is plenty enough to trick any parking bulb, but you could probably dial it in closer to 100 ohm depending on your exact specs. Pick up the same 5 pin connector and you can avoid splicing stock wiring. There is plenty of space and thermal headroom to mount the resistor below the housing. Just keep in mind it's not exactly waterproof in there.
Or skip connector and solder inside the tail housing itself, I guess it depends how big you’re resistor is but should fit inside.
 
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