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It says to fix any other codes first, & you also mentioned B23AE so I'll try to find the procedure for it, but I haven't seen you mention a Yellow Adapter:

The resolver offset learn might not work if there are any fault codes in any modules, including those which you can't access without a Yellow Adapter (currently item 11e if you click here).

That reminds me, did you make sure to turn the key from off only ONE click to "mar" before connecting OBD, & never, ever twist it to "avv" even for a spit second? That's important because if it thinks you've "started" the motor & it's "idling", some codes won't clear.
 
Back to Resolver Offset for a sec, I'd like to see a screenshot of what the manual calls "step-by-step instructions on the scan tool".

I can't check myself without starting the process on my own car.

Pg 150 at the link above says you need to be in the car, presumably to press the brake pedal to shift out of P, with the doors closed, & the car in "ready" mode.
 
I have the yellow cable, so connected every module and delete every fault except P0C17, and B23AE in PIM, and EVCM respectively. And I also read the manual P.149, but it has no detailed conditions. By the way, I researched P0C17, Kia and Hyundai brand hybrid car's procedure to resolve calibration which has a some conditions like SOC 30-80%.
 
& the codes in every other module stay clear even after putting the car to sleep & then putting it in "ready" mode & rechecking?

I think you can ignore B23AE since it's "information only", just indicating that there is a fault code in the PIM, that code being P0C17.
 
I wonder if Resolver Learn requires the humidity sensor reconnected in order to avoid the U1190 code.
 
Please confirm that you were in the car with the brake pressed in ready mode shifted out of P with the doors closed when trying the Resolver Offset Learn.
 
After all modules checked, I found humidity sensor internal error and brake bulb error. U1190 presents after humidity sensor disconnected. Both cannot perform the resolver learning procedure. Do I change the humidity sensor?
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& I assume that code won't stay clear. Please confirm that I made myself clear about never, ever turning the key past "mar" when clearing codes, then turn the car off 2+ minutes then "ready" for 1 minute & recheck

Please send a screenshot of what AlfaOBD shows after you click "start" for Motor Resolver Offset Learn.

Unless that shows something different, please confirm that you were in the car with the brake pressed in ready mode shifted out of P with the doors closed when trying the Resolver Offset Learn.
 
& I assume that code won't stay clear. Please confirm that I made myself clear about never, ever turning the key past "mar" when clearing codes, then turn the car off 2+ minutes then "ready" for 1 minute & recheck

Please send a screenshot of what AlfaOBD shows after you click "start" for Motor Resolver Offset Learn.

Unless that shows something different, please confirm that you were in the car with the brake pressed in ready mode shifted out of P with the doors closed when trying the Resolver Offset Learn.
China version of Humidity sensor is ok?
 
I find it pretty had to believe that sensor would prevent motor resolver learn, so what about my other 3 "questions"?
  1. Key position & recheck
  2. AlfaOBD instructions
  3. Brake pressed, shifted outa park
 
Your last sceenshot shows "connecting", not connected :unsure:.

Also code B16AF is still showing, & you might want to select it & then click "more info" because depending on the dash numbers after that code, it can be either an open or a short in the circuit.

You also might try "more info" for B11FA & checking the manual files for it's correction process.
 
Nervermind that last line: B11FA just says replace the sensor. As for whether a China knockoff might work, the OEM units don't even work! They frequently give false positive signals & also have actually made several cars fail to drive.

The best theory I've seen is that the car does a sensor-check at startup, & the fault-prone humidity sensor can delay the test's completion, making it time out in a subsequent random module, creating a false alarm error there that can cause failure to start & or go into D.
 
1. I checked key position "mar" and key off and key "mar" again that time all faults gone, but few time later pop up again in BCM.
2. I cannot see any instructions after click the start button and directly "failed."
3. Brake pressed, unpressed, shifter P,N,D all of them performed same.
But brake bulb fault going to be prevent learning procedure, so I ordered the bulb in amazon, so I'm waiting now.

I'm a little bit suspicious the brake bulb fault because you told me that brake press needs to perform the learning procedure. If not, I going to change the humidity sensor. So, I asked your opinion of China version of sensor.
 
1. I checked key position "mar" and key off and key "mar again that time all faults gone, but few time later pop up again in BCM.
So maybe clear it & then immediately try resolver relearn before the fault can pop up again.

2. I cannot see any instructions after click the start button and directly "failed."
That sucks, because page 150 says "Carry out the Resolver Relearn procedure by following the step-by-step instructions on the scan tool.". The scan tool they use is the proprietary wiTech that I believe is only available to dealers. @Junk e used to be a Fiat tech so I wonder if he might be able to find out what the instructions are.

3. Brake pressed, unpressed, shifter P,N,D...
So it goes into D! Do the wheels spin if you keep the doors closed & VERY slowly release the brake pedal? If so, brake VERY slowly to stop them before opening the door.

I'm a little bit suspicious the brake bulb fault because you told me that brake press needs to perform the learning procedure.
I just mentioned brake press since that's required for a moment to get it out of P, which I assume is needed for resolver learn, since it says to close the doors so it doesn't automatically go into park like it's programmed to do if a door is opened.

I asked your opinion of China version of sensor.
I've never heard of anyone ever replacing the sensor, since the car works best with it disconnected.
 
But I'm wondering about it going into D now, & if it did that before & if so what happened, & if not maybe see if it will drive.

If not, what's up with it showing "connecting" & not "connected"? If it's not connected it won't even clear codes, let alone do a Motor Resolver Offset Relearn.

Also, often after dropping the pack it needs other "active diagnostics" like, "reset weld check", & "reset active discharge fault.". Maybe try those if none of the above works.
 
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