[Electric Tire Shredder]

Going to get the PC version of AlfaOBD

If you happen to be away from home when you get the unpreventable contactor glitch that prevents starting and charging, the PC version will only get it going again if you have it in the car.

 

[Electric Tire Shredder]

It now appears that @premier0815 might have a gas 500, but it also has a lot of computer modules that might get a debilitating glitch while away from home, so I still recommend having the yellow adapter & $49 lifetime membership AlfaOBD in the car at all times, even if that means getting a $35 Amazon Android & leaving it charging in the car, such as from a glovebox USB.

 

[premier0815]

It now appears that @premier0815 might have a gas 500, but it also has a lot of computer modules that might get a debilitating glitch while away from home, so I still recommend having the yellow adapter & $49 lifetime membership AlfaOBD in the car at all times, even if that means getting a $35 Amazon Android & leaving it charging in the car, such as from a glovebox USB.

Thanks @Electric Tire Shredder so I could use any cheap android tablet and connect with Bluetooth? No wifi required? I am trying to figure out how to get all this to work. I plan on connecting the laptop/tablet via Bluetooth to the OBD

 

[Electric Tire Shredder]

Yes, a cheap Android phone or tablet works, even without Bluetooth (see below). WiFi is generally required to download the app to the device. You can download the free "demo" version 1st, then make sure it connects with the hardware below, then buy the $49 lifetime membership.

To do a "Proxy Alignment" to fix a flashing odometer & its associated issues requires the $49 AlfaOBD, a $13 "Yellow Adapter" (see post #2 on page 1 of this thread) plus either 1 of the following 2 options:

• $45 OBDLink SX USB cable (click here) if you carry a charged-up laptop in the car, or add ~$10 for Amazon USB OTG adapter to fit your phone or tablet, after checking it's compatible, with the free "USB OTG Checker" app.
• OR $81 OBDLink LX Bluetooth (or $126 MX+).

Prices incl. 10% off if you sign up to the free obdlink.com newsletter.

Click to enlarge:

Shown with MX+ Bluetooth but other options work, as above.

 

[Electric Tire Shredder]

I wonder if this is a better way for me to describe the 3 available options:

1st Option:
$49 AlfaOBD app on an OTG-compatible Android phone or tablet kept charged in the car
+$13 Yellow Adapter (post #2)
+$45 OBDLink SX cable
+$10 OTG adapter to fit the phone/tablet*.
=$117

OR 2nd Option:
$49 AlfaOBD app on a Windows laptop kept charged in the car
+$13 Yellow Adapter (post #2)
+$45 OBDLink SX cable.
=$107

OR 3rd Option:
$49 AlfaOBD app on any Android phone or tablet kept charged in the car
+$13 Yellow Adapter (post #2)
+$81 OBDLink LX (or $126 MX+)
=$143



* There are 2 types. Note the beveled ends of Micro that can only plug in one way up, & the rounded symmetrical C that can plug in either way up. Click to enlarge:

 

[premier0815]

I wonder if this is a better way for me to describe the 3 available options:

1st Option:
$49 AlfaOBD app on an OTG-compatible Android phone or tablet kept charged in the car
+$13 Yellow Adapter (post #2)
+$45 OBDLink SX cable
+$10 OTG adapter to fit the phone/tablet*.
=$117

OR 2nd Option:
$49 AlfaOBD app on a Windows laptop kept charged in the car
+$13 Yellow Adapter (post #2)
+$45 OBDLink SX cable.
=$107

OR 3rd Option:
$49 AlfaOBD app on any Android phone or tablet kept charged in the car
+$13 Yellow Adapter (post #2)
+$81 OBDLink LX (or $126 MX+)
=$143



* There are 2 types. Note the beveled ends of Micro that can only plug in one way up, & the rounded symmetrical C that can plug in either way up. Click to enlarge:
View attachment 115562

Thank you,

I am going with option#3 but good to know the other 2 options.

 

[Electric Tire Shredder]

I have option 3 myself, but if I was doing it again, I'd use the less expensive option 1.

 

[Electric Tire Shredder]

I don't know if the $49 Alfa membership locks you into the one device it's loaded on.

 

[premier0815]

I don't know if the $49 Alfa membership locks you into the one device it's loaded on.

I got the OBDLinkMX+ today and just waiting on the Yellow Adaptor and Android Tablet to arrive later this week and plan on downloading the AlfaOBD App onto the Tablet.

Do I have to download the OBDLink App and Pair the device with that app when I perform the Proxy Alignment? Or just ignore that OBDLink App for now, and simply use AlfaOBD?

 

[Electric Tire Shredder]

Ignore any OBDLink Apps. Prior to you mentioning it right now, I literally didn't even know there was one!

If I were you I'd download the free AlfaOBD "demo" app first, then use it to pair with the MX+, & then make sure it still connects when you add the Yellow Adapter. I see no reason at all for it not to work, but you never know. Once it all checks out, then you can upgrade to the $49 Alfa app.

 

[premier0815]

Ignore any OBDLink Apps. Prior to you mentioning it right now, I literally didn't even know there was one!

If I were you I'd download the free AlfaOBD "demo" app first, then use it to pair with the MX+, & then make sure it still connects when you add the Yellow Adapter. I see no reason at all for it not to work, but you never know. Once it all checks out, then you can upgrade to the $49 Alfa app.

Thank you for the detailed explanation and suggestion. I am getting the Android tablet today, and the very same yellow cable in your post will arrive on Wednesday. I hope this works to get the flashing odometer fixed!

I did have a question come up,
I saw someone mention elsewhere to not use Blue and ME at all and just use an aftermarket radio to avoid the flashing odometer? I thought that regardless of what radio is being used, if the Blue and ME module was not functioning properly, thereby not connecting with the BCM, we would see a blinking/flashing odometer anyways?

I hope it's not the Blue and Me module causing the issue, as I don't want to have to pry that open and send to the UK to have it rebuilt by a private company.

 

[Electric Tire Shredder]

Keep in mind that my sound system is completely stock:

When my odometer started flashing, my Blue and Me was not functioning at all. It wouldn't even connect to my phone. Also my glovebox USB stick stopped playing tunes. I tried unplugging/replugging it to no avail. I didn't think to try un-pairing & re-pairing the phone though, which did work after the proxy alignment. It might have worked before that, now we'll never know .

I'd be surprised if a stealership didn't say I needed a new $1k+ part, even though it wouldn't have been true...

The AlfaOBD app shows right onscreen that a flashing odometer indicates proxy alignment is required. Click to enlarge:

Then it said a code scan-&-clear was required, during which I discovered ELEVEN faults!

I have no idea what caused them, but after clearing them I still had to repeat the alignment part I think 4 or 5 times in order for it to finish. 5 times makes sense, since it would be one alignment for each item on the list shown here, until they were finally all done & it showed it was finished:

The odometer stopped flashing & the USB stick played, but my phone still wouldn't pair, so THEN I thought to un-pair/re-pair & it worked.

 

[premier0815]

Keep in mind that my sound system is completely stock:

When my odometer started flashing, my Blue and Me was not functioning at all. It wouldn't even connect to my phone. Also my glovebox USB stick stopped playing tunes. I tried unplugging/replugging it to no avail. I didn't think to try un-pairing & re-pairing the phone though, which did work after the proxy alignment. It might have worked before that, now we'll never know .

I'd be surprised if a stealership didn't say I needed a new $1k+ part, even though it wouldn't have been true...

The AlfaOBD app shows right onscreen that a flashing odometer indicates proxy alignment is required. Click to enlarge:
View attachment 115570

Then it said a code scan-&-clear was required, during which I discovered ELEVEN faults!
View attachment 115571
I have no idea what caused them, but after clearing them I still had to repeat the alignment part I think 4 or 5 times in order for it to finish. 5 times makes sense, since it would be one alignment for each item on the list shown here, until they were finally all done & it showed it was finished:
View attachment 115572 View attachment 115573
The odometer stopped flashing & the USB stick played, but my phone still wouldn't pair, so THEN I thought to un-pair/re-pair & it worked.

Thank goodness for your explanation as I am more prepared now for this Wednesday's Proxy Alignment although FastDave explained I shouldn't be using Bluetooth or wifi during this process as disconnecting during the procedure would "brick" the ECM and that's a little scary but good to know this worked very well and consistently for you.

I have no way right now to enable Blue and ME, as the steering wheel button that activates Blue and ME (the one with the voice icon) had been changed to "volume up" when I installed a Pioneer with Metra Interface and Metra Axess Steering Wheel Control module.

Recently I installed a Joying 8.8 Inch and that button couldn't be mapped as the installer did not connect the head unit to the SWC module properly, and even when I did with the 3.5mm to bare wire adaptor to connect they Key 1 wire to the SWC unit, only volume and mute worked.

I then had another shop rewire the head unit using a Connects2 interface which was designed in the UK and meant for the Fiat 500. I saw on Youtube that in Europe a person had installed the very same head unit and Connects 2 interface into his Abarth and confirmed that all buttons worked although the steering wheel control buttons are a bit different on that particular car than my North American Fiat 500.

Currently, my Voice button on the steering wheel is the same as "track up". and I got most of the buttons mapped to the head unit and working now. The new place said Connects2 didn't make the steering wheel controls work, and then used my Connects2 along with my existing Metra Axesss SWC interface somehow and got it to work decently, but wont' return my calls anymore after the flashing odometer. Even though I told them I don't need them to do anything about the flashing odometer, and that I will get a proxy alignment at the dealer. I told them that I just want them to redo the SIM card slot from the back of the head unit, as it was originally accessible from behind/below the glove box after the 1st installation, but it is no longer there and somewhere behind the dash.

Even though I offered to pay for the labor, no callback. The 1st place? called twice to let him know about the Key 1 wire that needs to be connected and the Can + Key cables needing to be connected behind the head unit, no callback as it seemed the person wanted nothing to do with the installation, after charging quite a bit for the work.

I think I am so fed up with stereo installations by now just don't want to do any more mods to my car until the odometer is fixed. I do not recommend an Android head unit for our cars after this experience, although it looks and works pretty nicely, it wasn't worth all the money that went into it. Unless you live near 500madness in CA or TX and those guys will install one of their Android units for you perhaps.

I pray this proxy alignment will work, wish me luck

 

[Electric Tire Shredder]

FastDave explained I shouldn't be using Bluetooth or wifi during this process...

That sounds like good advice.

In my case though, Bluetooth wouldn't work even if I tried! & I don't believe my car even has wifi.

Since you have the same Bluetooth OBD dongle as me, you'll of course be using Bluetooth for the proxy alignment, just like I did.

I do not recommend an Android head unit

That sounds like good advice too.

These highly-computerized cars are already a bit prone to a few quirks, even without messing with the electronics.

 

[premier0815]

That sounds like good advice.

In my case though, Bluetooth wouldn't work even if I tried! & I don't believe my car even has wifi.

Since you have the same Bluetooth OBD dongle as me, you'll of course be using Bluetooth for the proxy alignment, just like I did.



That sounds like good advice too.

These highly-computerized cars are already a bit prone to a few quirks, even without messing with the electronics.

Truth be told, I really liked the look of the "irregular" factory stereo, but when I was shopping for used Fiat 500s, I noticed all of them had smeared buttons if the radio was black, while ivory radios seem to retain their finish much better.

I did manage to buy a NOS factory head unit but it wasn't a 1:1 swap as the new unit had Sirius XM, and for some reason had no sound when I connected. That's why I had a Pioneer unit installed with a built-in phone cradle as the Pioneer app turns the phone into a screen for the radio and I liked that very much until I got tired of the phone restricting the vents and I thought the Joying 8.8 inch was wide but short enough to not restrict airflow from the center vents.

Currently, the kits to install Android units or double din kits, just expect us to have hot or cold air blowing to the back of the radio, although 1 youtuber did produce air ducts for himself when installing something like a 500madness unit, and enough people have commented to make him think about producing them. If I had to do this over again, maybe I would have preferred a working NOS factory stereo with one of those Apple Car Play units that mount on top of the dash and plug into the Aux port.

That reminds me, the main reason I went to installation place #2 was that I wanted to retain the factory AUX and USB, and in order to do that I had to install a kit that replaces the factory USB/AUX board under the ports, and run the USB and 3.5mm wires from the new board under the center console to the back of the head unit, as well as connect the power and ground wires and I didn't have a game plan on how I would do this myself and just didn't want to.

I also wanted to install a dash cam and have it hardwired. Needless to say, they mounted it in a weird spot that was slightly off-center, a little too high, and hiding the screen. After watching some helpful videos, I ended up using dental floss to break the seal and used a "slow pull" to take that right off and reposition it with new 3M tape from the manufacturer.

Had to remove the rear camera as the small double-sided tape had a big air pocket and just didn't look very appealing and used new 3m tape as well. Needless to say, I was a little disappointed. Both installers had been installing stereos for 30-40 years and both were proud to mention it. How long have Android units been around, let alone dash cams? Definitely not that long.

Both installers did great work in some aspects so I am glad, however, it's good to know that dash cams can be easily repositioned with dental floss, a slow gentle pull (strong pulling will not work), and reattached with new 3M tape

 

[Electric Tire Shredder]

FastDave explained I shouldn't be using Bluetooth or wifi

I found the @fast_dave quote & now that it's clear, it seems worth paying more attention than I did above:

Proxy Alignments are recommended to ONLY be carried out over a CABLED connection to the PC or MAC...

"disconnect" of Wi-Fi or Bluetooth connection which would quite possibly "brick" your ECU (Vehicle Computer) due a incomplete configuration.

WHOAH!! That's pretty scary, & is another reason to avoid an $81 Bluetooth OBD & use a $45 cable instead ("1st Option" in post #25 above) especially since it can be done with a phone or tablet that's easier to keep charged up in the car than a PC or MAC.

 

[Electric Tire Shredder]

Maybe I just got lucky (4 times?) doing mine with Bluetooth, but it DID perform 4 incomplete configurations & still ended up working fine .

My pics in post #32 show it had to do 5 different configurations. Each time it would finish one & then show "..." at the end of the next one, without completing it. So each time I just re-started the alignment & it would finish the next one but not the one after, until after 5 attempts it finally finished.

I'm pretty sure at least one or two others have reported successful proxy alignments using Bluetooth, but it still seems wiser to use a cable, just in case.

 

[premier0815]

Maybe I just got lucky (4 times?) doing mine with Bluetooth, but it DID perform 4 incomplete configurations & still ended up working fine .

My pics in post #32 show it had to do 5 different configurations. Each time it would finish one & then show "..." at the end of the next one, without completing it. So each time I just re-started the alignment & it would finish the next one but not the one after, until after 5 attempts it finally finished.

I'm pretty sure at least one or two others have reported successful proxy alignments using Bluetooth, but it still seems wiser to use a cable, just in case.

THANK GOD the Proxy Reset worked! I tried it today with the OBD MX+ connected to an Android tablet via Bluetooth and the yellow cable while in accessories mode ( I wasn't sure if I was supposed to have it in accessories mode or have the ignition completely off because I noticed the OBD MX+ would light up with the ignition off).

There were 2 Yellow cable choices in the dropdown, and I tried both of them and did a proxy reset, when the proxy alignment was completed, to my disappointment, the odometer was still flashing, however after I turned the car off and restarted, the flashing odometer had been fixed.

This is the best investment so far for my Fiat 500. I also noticed a higher voltage rating for the battery with the ignition running at 14 volts instead of the 13.8 I had been seeing recently after the odometer started flashing.

A BIG thanks to @Electric Tire Shredder @fast_dave for the great advice!

 

[premier0815]

I wonder if this is a better way for me to describe the 3 available options:

1st Option:
$49 AlfaOBD app on an OTG-compatible Android phone or tablet kept charged in the car
+$13 Yellow Adapter (post #2)
+$45 OBDLink SX cable
+$10 OTG adapter to fit the phone/tablet*.
=$117

OR 2nd Option:
$49 AlfaOBD app on a Windows laptop kept charged in the car
+$13 Yellow Adapter (post #2)
+$45 OBDLink SX cable.
=$107

OR 3rd Option:
$49 AlfaOBD app on any Android phone or tablet kept charged in the car
+$13 Yellow Adapter (post #2)
+$81 OBDLink LX (or $126 MX+)
=$143



* There are 2 types. Note the beveled ends of Micro that can only plug in one way up, & the rounded symmetrical C that can plug in either way up. Click to enlarge:
View attachment 115562

@Electric Tire Shredder, could you explain what the OTG adaptor is for in Option 1? I now understand that I could've used the OBDLink SX cable instead of the OBD MX+ and connected to the Yellow cable which would be connected to the OBD port in the car, but why is the OTG required? Most Android phones have either a micro USB or a USB C and I get that, but must it be OTG to connect that OBDLink SX USB A? It can't simply be a USB adaptor.

Also, I had a Chromebook laying around (completely out of sight which I hadn't used in almost a year), and since that is Android-based, maybe that could have also worked with the OBDLink SX cable and Yellow Adaptor. I could have probably used the Chromebook via Bluetooth to the OBD MX+ and Yellow adaptor.

If I had used the Chromebook with OBDLink SX cable and Yellow Adaptor, would I have still needed an OTG adaptor? The Chromebook has USB C and a full-size USB port. I am thinking that next time I would like to do this with a cable instead of Bluetooth, either with my Chromebook or a Windows Laptop, and want to prepare.

 

[Electric Tire Shredder]

@Electric Tire Shredder, could you explain...

I could at least try to explain:

AlfaOBD works with nearly any non-Apple device, such as a laptop, tablet or phone.

AlfaOBD connects to the car with either Bluetooth (not recommended for flashing odometer fix) or USB.

USB can connect to a laptop (not recommended, unless you always have it in the car) or to a tablet/phone IF it's OTG compatible.

So ideally you want an OTG-compatible non-Apple device that's always charged-up in the car, with the $49 AlfaOBD app, & a proper Yellow Adapter that's not just an extension cable that happens to be yellow .



Literally LMAO right now at how f'ing complicated this is, so let me know if it still doesn't make sense.